Probably because many have the HD Fury and other processors that can be set up to display LLDV on non DV displays.
If so, that is a unfortunate assumption for them to have made or designed around.
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Probably because many have the HD Fury and other processors that can be set up to display LLDV on non DV displays.
I think I will hold off buying the movie from K with those audio issues. May just buy it on disc since it is cheaper.I deleted the Dolby vision copy of furiosa and downloaded the HDR10 version. Good thing with furiosa you can choose between vision and hdr10. Anyways no issues whatsoever on the HDR10 version….so there’s that.
The audio anomalies mentioned above, are still there (the latter being more prominent). So probably k received them that way?
I think overall the quality is quite impressive except for those 2 brief audio cutoffs, but I appreciate your concerns as well for holding off.I think I will hold off buying the movie from K with those audio issues. May just buy it on disc since it is cheaper.
Thanks I wasn't thinking it was inadequate power coming in but maybe power going out... active Hdmi cables needed now where they weren't needed before to help boost a possible need.Thanks for the cable testing. But, basing it off the power consumption of the V vs the C is not a good way to look at it as the V came out 7.5 years after the C and there has been no change in movie playback requirements since then. So the V should absolutely use way less power, even with an NVME drive, considering SoC manufacturing/design advancements in that time.
For example let’s look at the Apple TV 4k boxes 4K HDR playback consumption:
1st gen (2017 A10X SoC) 5.77W
2nd gen (2021 A12 SoC) 3.41W
3rd gen (2022 A15 SoC) 2.31W (fan was also removed from this model as it was no longer needed)
Perhaps there is something going on with the power/voltage being supplied to the HDMI port, but it’s not due to the V’s power consumption being too low.
Good datapoint, thank you. Did you still have the OSD set manually to 60 or did you revert that back to Auto?@MikeKobb Setting maximum bandwidth to 13.5 Gbps solved my blank screen issue. Now it transitions quickly without losing the HDMI handshake.
set to 60Good datapoint, thank you. Did you still have the OSD set manually to 60 or did you revert that back to Auto?
I think you mentioned that the issues you had with it set to 60 were the audio glitches on Furiosa. Were there other hiccups? The OSD refresh rate shouldn't affect movie playback at all, so that would be odd.I tried both 60 and 24. With 60 the issues were resolved but a couple of hiccups here and there. 24hz provides me the best experience, albeit the UI becomes sluggish but the viewing experience is unhindered. Of course ymmv.
Earlier in the thread, you had mentioned that setting to 60 solved your problem. Did you also set it to 13.5 at that time, or later? If later, was it because you were still seeing issues with it set to 60?set to 60
That was my initial impression, however the main issue was that It would take a tad bit longer to return to the UI/main screen with 60, compared to 24I think you mentioned that the issues you had with it set to 60 were the audio glitches on Furiosa. Were there other hiccups? The OSD refresh rate shouldn't affect movie playback at all, so that would be odd.
started having issues when set 60. Then I set to 24. That works fine but the UI is laggy. Setting to 60 and 13.5 Gbps seems to work great.Earlier in the thread, you had mentioned that setting to 60 solved your problem. Did you also set it to 13.5 at that time, or later? If later, was it because you were still seeing issues with it set to 60?
I am not experiencing the issue and I am 99% sure I am running this active cable:Curious if anyone having the black screen issue is using a active hdmi cable? I am not since my run to the projector is less than 15ft...but wondering if somehow a active cable might help.
I had this same issue with a Strato C awhile back, and setting the max output to 13.5 and osd to 60 hz, per recommendation from Kris Deering, fixed the issue and I’ve had no issues since.Good datapoint, thank you. Did you still have the OSD set manually to 60 or did you revert that back to Auto?
If it ain't broke...I am not experiencing the issue and I am 99% sure I am running this active cable:
To add, When I upgraded my projector from an Epson 6040UB to the Sony XW6000ES and KSCAPE, I had to upgrade to this cable. The last cable I had was another cheap-o 18gbps item and I was getting blackouts and pink images like some people are reporting. "Upgrading" to a better cheap-o cable was the fix.
I know my cheap-o cables are not recommended which begs the questions as to why would someone drop $10k on a system only to cheap out on a cable...Well ladies and gentleman, it is hot in my attic in August. This was the only working cable that was available for same day delivery last summer when I was doing the install. It was supposed to be a band-aid, but it worked so well, I do not feel like getting back up there any time soon.
Got it, thank you.That was my initial impression, however the main issue was that It would take a tad bit longer to return to the UI/main screen with 60, compared to 24
Audio glitches on Furiosa are present irrespective of the refresh rate. In fact i deleted the Dolby vision download of Furiosa and re-downloaded the HDR10 version but the audio cutouts were still there 1) 00:50:50 onwards 2)1:13:10 onwards. I don’t remember the exact timestamp but it sets off after those points.
Also there was an enormous amount of brightness fluctuations on the Dolby Vision version which were highly obtrusive and disconcerting. This prompted me to download the HDR10 version which exhibited no fluctuations whatsoever and played flawlessly, except for those audio glitches which is baked in imho.